Exploring the Majestic Landscapes of Banff National Park in the Canadian Rockies
- Sarah
- Aug 6
- 10 min read
Glacial lakes, towering snowcapped peaks, golden larches, picturesque towns and breathtaking scenery as far as the eye can see. Banff has captured my imagination since middle school (or maybe high school; I'm not sure what my exact age was), when I saw pictures of Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, the Fairmont Hotel at Lake Louise, and read about the Rocky Mountain Express train. I planned my first ever trip - a train trip across Canada finishing at Lake Louise, similar trip on the Rocky Mountain Express - inspired by these pictures and what I read about in those old books.
Banff is considered the crown jewel of Canada's National Park System and was the first
National Park established in 1885. The park was originally established as Banff Hot Springs
Reserve to resolve a squabble over who discovered and owned the hot springs in the area. Over 450 archeological discoveries have been made in Banff relating to the First Nations, with the oldest being dated to 13,000 years ago. Between 1890 and 1920 the Stoney Nakoda First People were removed from what is now Banff National Park to make it a preserve for sportsmen and tourists. In total 6 First Nations Groups called this area of Canada home; to learn more about them and the First Nations of Canada you can check out more resources here.
Part of the Rocky Mountain Range, Banff sits on Alberta's western border with British Columbia, and while Banff National Park and the town of Banff get the most attention or at least name dropped the most, the area is home to a feast of parks: Jasper NP (and town) YoHo NP, Kootenay NP and Glacier NP (the Canadian one) all call this area home which makes it an outdoor enthusiasts paradise, we tried to fit as much as possible into our trip while visiting Banff, Yoho and Jasper, we could have easily spent a week or more exploring each park individually.
Like most visitors, we flew into Calgary to start our adventure, picked up our rental car, grabbed a late lunch, picked up some groceries and then started our 3-hour drive to our cabin Golden. Unfortunately, we of discovered a few days prior to our arrival that highway 1 would be closed for construction for the first half of our visit, necessitating a 3-hour drive around Kananaskis to reach Banff. It was still worth it.
There are countless beautiful glacial lakes in this part of Canada, Lake Louise and Moraine Lake are undoubtedly the most popular and maybe the most photographed. Peter McKinnon has several videos on YouTube about his quest to get "the shot" at Moraine Lake,
which he did eventually get it and it's something I would want to recreate if I lived closer. Starting a few years ago, in an effort to control the number of visitors and preserve the environment, Moraine can only be reached by shuttle. While there is still parking at Lake Louise, the parking lot usually fills up early, and many people choose the shuttle option. There are rumors that Lake Louise will become shuttle access only in the future.
Lake Louise Hikes - Mirror Lake, Agnes Lake, the Big Beehive and the Plain of Six Glaciers
We got to Lake Louise bright and early between 6 and 7 am, the parking lot was still fairly
empty but filled up quickly. Tour buses and shuttles were also starting to arrive, it was a pretty misty and cloudy morning, so we stopped for a quick picture of the lake, before continuing on to our hike. The area in front of the Fairmont Chateau was teeming with jostling tourists from buses, just stopping long enough to take a picture and walk around the lake shore a bit. We headed off for the first part of our hike; Mirror Lake, Agnes Lake and the teahouse situated on its shore. The trail was well maintained, and it was an easy and pleasant hike through the spruce forest to Mirror Lake, the day we went there was a dusting of snow on the ground and while chilly at the start, it was great hiking weather despite being overcast most of the day and occasionally sprinkling some flurries down on us. Mirror lake is small and not nearly as impressive as Lake Louise, but with the Big Beehive towering in the background it's an easily recognizable spot and a great place for photos.
After a break for some pictures and bird watching at Mirror Lake, we continued on to Agnes Lake. Renowned for its beautiful green color and charming teahouse, surrounded by soaring cliffs and the Big Beehive. The teahouse was fist built in 1901. While the building was replaced in the 1980s, many original features remain. The teahouse is family own and run;
they bake their menu items by hand and have a wide selection of loose-leaf teas. Everything has to be hiked into the teahouse so when items are sold out that's it until the staff carry more in (they also get to and from work every day by hiking). We enjoyed a snack of hot chocolate and a pastry (the teahouse accepts cash and cards) while enjoying the crisp air and views of the lake with a light dusting of snow on the surrounding mountains.
Revived from our snack, we continued our hike around the edge the lake towards the Big Beehive, there was a couple taking wedding photos that we passed at the far end of the lake before beginning our ascent. Reaching the top of the Big Beehive we were greeted with spectacular views of the surrounding lakes and forests, for probably the hundredth time we were struck by the extreme beauty of the Canadian Rockies. After a little debate we decided to continue hiking and head out to the Plain of Six Glaciers.
This hike doesn't get nearly as much love as the Lake Agnes Hike but is worth it for the feeling of being at the end of the world as you sit taking in the receding glaciers. This is a
fairly moderate hike, although it can feel a bit long as the scenery is a bit more barren as it gives way from gleaming lakes and lush forests to steep cliffs and towering peaks, including Victoria Peak. The hike takes you along a ledge with a steep drop off into the valley (plain) on one side and high cliffs on the other, this area is an avalanche risk, and we did see a mini landslide, so stay alert. This part of the hike gives way to an open area where the Plain of Six Glaciers sits, this is another historic teahouse that operates the same way the Lake Agnes teahouse does, everything is hiked in, but another worthwhile spot to stop for a snack and to enjoy the view. From the teahouse it's another 2ish miles along an exposed open ridge with lots of loose shale which can make for slow going. The hike dead ends at a lookout point where you can enjoy a feeling of awe and maybe a bit of desolation in the shadow of these ancient glaciers that feed Lake Louise and the sheer towers of Pope's Peak and Victoria Peak.
When the weather seemed like it might be turning and with a few flurries floating around, we decided to head back to the trailhead. The hike back might get a bit long if you've done the full round of Lake Agnes, the Beehives (we skipped the Little Beehive) and out to the Plain of Six Glaciers, as it's over 13 miles with over 1000 feet of elevation gain. Our total milage from our loop was around 14 miles and took us around 8 hours with breaks.
Mirror Lake (all distances and times are one way)
Distance: 1.9 miles Time: 1 Hour Elevation: 1082 feet Difficulty: Easy
Lake Agnes
Distance: 2.2 miles Time: 1.5/2 hours Elevation: 1263 feet Difficulty: Easy
Big Beehive
Distance: 3.2 miles Time: 2.5/3 hours Elevation: 1706 feet Difficulty: Moderate
Plain of Six Glaciers
Distance: 6.5 miles Time: 1.5 -2.5 hours Elevation: 1214 feet Difficulty: Moderate
Moraine Lake
For our second day in Banff our stop was the very insta famous Moraine Lake. Access via private vehicle was stopped a few years ago to try to help with overcrowding, and damage
from vehicles. There are several different options, which you can read about in more detail below, but we went with a private shuttle in order to be there for sunrise. The most popular spot for sunrise is the rockpile, it's an easy walk to reach the top and although we arrived around 5am (I think) the rockpile was already crowded with people jostling for a good spot. It was definitely cold (September) and the water was so still and glass-like that you could see the stars reflected in it.
After watching the sunrise and the peaks turn gold from the light, we headed off on our
hike. From the Larch Valley trailhead you can access multiple trails. We headed up the Larch Valley trail along with most everyone else, with the intention of hiking Larch Valley and maybe Sentinal Pass if my cramps felt up to it (I get semi-debilitating cramps during my period and had the joy of experiencing my period during our trip). We reached a point where the trail splits; Eiffel Lake, Wenkchemna Pass and beyond to Yoho National Park or to Larch Valley. Larch Valley was our initial intention and super popular due to the spectacular views of the Golden Larches in the fall. Most of the other hikers were heading; after waiting for my cramps to pass, we opted to head for Paris Lake (no matter where you go, you will see golden Larches in the fall).
The majority of the hike is fairly easy as the trail winds along the side of the mountain range offering sweeping views out over the Valley of 10 peaks; with its winding glacial stream, golden larches and other fir trees; I couldn't help but think that this would be a great place to see a bear. We did not. Slightly before the 4-mile mark (6km) you will see Eiffel Lake sitting below, there doesn't seem to be a marked trail to make your way down, but you can see where people have scrambled up and down the hillside.
Eventually the easy-to-follow trail gives way to a slightly harder to follow trail as it has been washed away by rockslides in some places, so you find yourself picking over loose rocks and
walking between giant boulders, reminders of nature's power. The trail continues to wind through this terrain until you start the ascent to the pass. Here the trail was much harder to find as it was often obscured by rocks from rockslides, and some snow and ice for some extra difficulty. Getting up to the pass was slow going as we picked across this mess and up towards the top of the path, once we reached the top there was a sign noting the elevation (8,470 feet) and a stunning panorama of Banff and Yoho National Parks. The hike back is long, but not overly hard after you finish picking your way across the rock fields.
Eiffel Lake/Wenkchemna Pass ( These stats are for if you go all the way to Wenkchemna Pass)
Distance: 12 miles RT Time: 6 -8 hours Elevation: 2362 feet Difficulty: Moderate
The Town of Banff
We stopped in the town of Banff on our final day and on our way back to Calgary. You do
need a Parks Canada Pass to park in the down and there is a lot of parking, but you may have to walk a bit to get to the shops and restaurants. If you forget any gear Banff is a great place to find outdoor shops, you may have to pay a bit of premium though. We ate, walked around town to take some pictures and picked up some souvenirs before heading to Calgary.
Logistics Notes
Lake Louise Parking - As of 2025 parking private vehicles is still allowed at Lake Louise, but there is talk of changing access to shuttle only. Parking is limited, during high season it's advised to arrive early (before 7am) to secure parking. It is paid parking (around $37 USD) and you pay at the kiosks near the restrooms, you will need your license plate number to make the payment, and a permit will print out that you need to display in your vehicle.
Parks Canada Pass - You will need a Parks Canada Pass if you wish to visit Banff National Park and the Town of Banff. You can purchase these in advance and have them sent to you (judge for yourself if your postal system might lose it), you can also pick one up at the Banff Park Gates (or the gate to any of the other parks) or the visitors centers. You can also purchase passes for a smaller increment of days at a lower cost.
Shuttles - Moraine Lake is closed to private vehicles (I believe there are exceptions if you are staying at the lodge) there are several shuttle options available depending on your budget and how long you want to spend at the lake. We opted for a more expensive private shuttle to be at the lake for sunrise and to have more flexibility as we could hop on an earlier shuttle if there was space. You can also book shuttles that take you to Moraine Lake and Lake Louise, many people choose this option if they just want to walk around the lake shores or do some short hikes.
Other notes
Bears - The Canadian Rockies are home to both black and brown (Grizzly) bears and while
most encounters are non-lethal, there are a few things to remember to help keep you safe.
Group hike requirements - check the boards by trailheads to see if it is required to hike in a group
Bear spray is a must; most hotels offer bear spray for rent and sometimes other tourists who are leaving will offer their bear spray for cheap or free since you can't fly with it. You should also make sure you know how to bear spray, you can order practice canisters, it's a good idea to get some and practice deploying it.
Many people suggest bear bells, but there is a lot of debate if they are actually effective and suggest talking or carrying an airhorn or whistle to make extra noise. Many backpacks have whistles built into the chest strap.
Avalanches/Rockslides - Many areas in Banff National Park are prone to
avalanches/rockslides and Parks Canada doesn't close areas due to risk. During our hikes we saw/heard several small rockslides and one avalanche (it was off a glacier).
Clothes - Layers are your friend. During our hikes we wore everything from tank tops to down jackets. I would recommend having a rain jacket and warm layer, whatever that means to you, I run cold so I often have a heavier layer even during warm weather.
Canoeing - Both Moraine Lake and Lake Louise are popular spots to rent canoes and grab those iconic pics, it is however pretty pricey, and the wait can be long. An alternative would be to canoe at Emerald Lake which is cheaper. You can bring your own paddleboard to both likes, however, as they are both protected bodies of water you do have to self-certify that your equipment has been cleaned and dry for 48 hours prior. This requirement also exists for several other lakes in the area, also check with the boathouse/notices to see if boating may be prohibited due to another reason such as fish borne diseases.
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